Free Musician's Mask Pattern and Tutorial
When it is finally time for your musicians to get back to playing, chances are that you will begin with masks. Normal masks can be worn and lowered while playing, but it's not an ideal solution for safety or convenience.
Enter the Musician's Mask! There are many out there, but most are either behind a pay wall or advice to cut a hole in a mask... and that's it. The Musician's Mask pattern here will have a finished hole as well as a covering for the hole for safe wearing while not playing!
Masks for Brass Players and Most WoodwindsThe Musician's Mask pattern shown here is designed for brass and most woodwind players who are looking for a mask that can transition easily from normal wear to playing their instrument. Each mask has a mouthpiece slot and a mask flap that covers the slot so that you can remain safe while not playing.
This mask sadly is not viable for flute players. But if you are interested in one, please feel free to reach out via social media or our contact form!
If you decide that sewing a mask is not in the cards for you, we also offer affordable Musician's Masks in our store here!
Materials Needed For Sewing Your Mask:
- 1 Fat Quarter (or more depending on how many masks you need to make) of 100% cotton fabric -- This can be any color or pattern you desire! Make them all match in a neutral, or stand out with a fun character print!
- A sewing machine -- this pattern needs to be made with a sewing machine, unless you are happy making a huge buttonhole by hand...
- 1/4" elastic
- Nosewire (or a paperclip if you don't have a nosewire)
- Thread, needles, and pins/ clips
- Mask and flap pattern- dimensions below!
Step 1: Cut Paper to Make Your Mask Pattern
The mask body and flap pattern dimensions are given below so you dont have to print anything out! Just grab a ruler and a straight edge to create your pattern.
You will want to cut your pattern 10 inches long and 7.25 inches tall. Fold your rectangle over and mark 2 inches in on the corners. Draw a diagonal line between those two points to make the corner notch.
While your pattern is still folded, make your slot marking in the middle of the mask body pattern. Since we want a 3 inch slot, cut in 1.5 inches!
Step 2: Cut Your Mask Fabric
Once you have your pattern, place it on your fabric to cut it out. I prefer to use weights (a stack of large washers works wonders), but you can pin it if you prefer!
Cut 2 of each the mask body and the flap. If you want, you can use a different fabric pattern for the inside and outside.
Mark the mouthpiece slot on the fabric that will be on the outside of the mask.
**DO NOT CUT THE MOUTHPIECE SLOT YET!**
Step 3: Sew The Mask Flap
Take your mask flap rectangles and stack them with the right sides together. Sew around the two pieces with a 1 cm or 3/8 in seam allowance, leaving about a 2 inch space for turning.
Step 4: Sew the Mask Body
Stack your two mask body pieces with right sides together. Stich the long edges as shown, leaving the short edges open for turning.
Step 5: Fold the Mask Body
After ironing the mask flat, it is time to iron it in its folded position. Place the mask on your ironing board with the inside fabric up (in this case, that is superhero fabric).
Fold the longer sides in as shown. They will overlap in the middle, but make sure that the long edges do not meet the other side.
Step 6: Add the Nosewire
If you are using a paperclip for a nosewire, bend as shown below. The loops on the end of the paper clip are important for keeping it inside the mask- so don't skip that part!
Once you have your nosewire ready, insert it through the open short edges of the mask body and center it at the top of the mask. Sew around the nosewire to make sure it stays in place.
Step 7: Create the Mouthpiece Slot
I designed the mouthpiece slot as a manual buttonhole because I wanted to make sure that the edges wouldn't fray and ruin your mask (or leave threads to tickle your face).
The mouthpiece slot can look daunting, but it is not really that hard to do! If you are nervous to put one on your mask, try practicing with two layers of fabric scraps first!
As it says in the photo below, set your machine to a zig zag stitch (for me this is setting 2), the widest stitch width (for me this is 5), and at 0 for your stitch length.
**DO NOT FORGET TO ADJUST YOUR MACHINE SETTINGS BACK TO THOSE AT THE BEGINNING OF THE MOUTHPIECE SLOT STEP**
Step 8: Open the Mouthpiece Slot
In order to keep the edges of the fabric from fraying too far back into the mask, we first made the mouthpiece slot. Now we need to open it back up!
I recommend using Fray Check (as seen below) in order to add another layer of protection against fraying.
Start opening the mouthpiece slot by inserting your seam ripper in between the stitches and ripping. You can open the entire slot this way, or you can use scissors for a cleaner cut. Apply the fray check to the cut edges!
Step 9: Make the Mask 3D
To make the mask stand away from your face, you will need to run two lines of stitching along your folded edges. Stitch about 1/8 inch away from the edge of the fold or as close as you can get.
Step 10: Make a Casing for Elastic
To make the casing for your mask elastic, first fold over the short raw edge about a 1/4 inch (this doesn't have to be exact). Fold over again to make a casing wide enough for the elastic that you have.
Step 11: Fold and Stitch the Mask Open
The other component to making this mask 3D is stitching open the angled corners that you cut into the fabric. Looking at the photo below, take the angled seams that are near the elastic casing that you just made. Those seams (marked in red and blue) will be stitched open, paralell to the casing.
For a good fit, make sure that the top and bottom seams of the mask are as even with the elastic casing as possible.
Repeat on the other side.
You did it!!
Step 12: Attach the Flap to the Mask Body
You are almost done! Now you need to sew the flap onto your mask so that it will cover the mouthpiece slot.
Attach the flap to the opposite side of your dominent hand. For example, if you are left handed, sew the flap down on the right side of the mask so that you can open it with your left hand.
**BE CAREFUL NOT THE SEW OVER THE ELASTIC CASING WHEN ATTACHING THE FLAP**
In order to avoid sewing over your casing, drape the flap over the mask, line it up, pin, then flip it over to the inside. Now you are able to see where your casing is! I stitch the flap using the same line of stitching as the angled seams from step 11.
Step 13: Add Snaps or Velcro
To keep your flap closed, add velcro or snaps to the free side of the flap.
**PLACE SNAPS/ VELCRO CAREFULLY TO AVOID THE ELASTIC CASING**
Final Step: Add Elastic!
Finish your mask by adding elastic! I find it more comfortable to wear a mask that has elastic that goes behind my head (this relieves pressure from my ears).
To do the same, attach a safetly pin to the end of about an arm's length of elastic. Run it up one elastic casing and then down the other as shown.
Tie the ends together, and melt them slightly with a lighter to keep the edges from fraying.